Page 10 - Periodic Issue 02

W hereare they now?

Matt Rattley (DPhil, Dixon Group) shows us how two Oxford Chemistry alumni followed
their nose to success.

Name: Luet-Lok Wong Name:
Ruth Mastenbroek
Role: Associate Professor of Chemistry, University of
Oxford Role:
Perfumer
Education: BA (Hons), 1984 St Catherine’s College
MA, DPhil, 1987 St Catherine’s College Education: MChem, 1970 Lady Margaret Hall

Supported by over 15 years of enzyme When thinking about smells in chemistry,
research by Oxford chemist Professor the unmistakable fruity scent of the Dyson
Luet Wong, Oxford Biotrans is a spin-out Perrins laboratory probably springs to
company formed in 2013. It is dedicated to mind – hopefully with fond memories of
developing and commercialising enzymatic undergraduate labs. But, in the hands
process technologies that yield high-value of critically acclaimed perfumer Ruth
chemical compounds. Mastenbroek, chemistry has much more
to offer the nose. Her work has been
One application of this research is in the perfume industry, highlighted in a number of national publications, including
and Professor Wong has developed a technique to The Financial Times, the Daily Mail and Vogue – and her
transform commonly available natural extracts into related company has a wide range of products from hair and skin
flavour and fragrance compounds. lotions, to eau de parfum, to home fragrance. She says
that her chemistry training was a great platform that her
Oxford Biotrans’ first product will be talent for scent-matching could build from.
the grapefruit flavour and fragrance,
nootkatone, which is difficult to “My chemistry background was
extract from grapefruit and therefore invaluable as it gave me some
expensive. The company will use enzymes idea of how a particular kind of
to produce nootkatone from valencene, a widely-available ingredient – aldehyde, ketone, or
natural compound obtained from oranges. whatever – would respond under
different conditions” she says.
“The process requires little energy and generates almost “How long a scent lasts on hair
no waste in contrast to conventional chemical processes. or fabric, handling the alkalinity of
The real benefit is that the end product is completely soaps, or preparing fragrances for
natural.” – Professor Wong. eau de parfum all throw up different kinds of challenges”.
Not that just anyone could mix these compounds together
The Oxford Biotrans technology also has potential – a delicate touch to balance the high, middle and low
applications in the production of pharmaceuticals, notes of a fragrance is where Ruth’s flair comes through.
agrochemical and other speciality chemicals. www.ruthmastenbroek.com
www.oxfordbiotrans.com

Spotlight on Catalysis
A catalyst speeds up chemical reactions. Applications Aside from fine perfume development, Oxford is also
of catalysis are estimated to be worth £700 billion well placed to use the expertise in the department to
worldwide and impact on issues such as energy, create new bulk fragrances. In particular, research into
pollution control, sustainability and chemical new catalytic methods for converting easy-to-access
manufacture. Catalysis research impacts our day to and cheap materials can have a huge positive impact on
day lives in a multitude of positive ways including the the environmental effects caused by processing large
replication of natural flavours and fragrances, a market amounts of raw materials to access rarer chemicals.
that reached $22Bn in 2013.

10
Periodic The Magazine of the Department of Chemistry